Dina
03-04-2006, 11:36 PM
I do not claim responsibility for anyone doing this kind of work and messing something up. If you are not familiar with this kind of work please have someone who is qualified do the work for you.
Ok so today I started to do the clutch on my EJ1 and I took some PICS. Hope this helps someone who is willing to do the same to there Civic or any other car with a manual transmission as the steps are all pretty much the same. Now I have to do this in steps because of time restrains on me at work. So this is the First part and I will be updating this as I progress on the install. First drain your tranny of its life blood and let it drain really good, you don?t want to get tranny fluid all over your work area or your self.
This is my Ej1 and here it sits with a bad Clutch
These are the tools I will be using. Note that air equipment is not needed but it sure makes the job a lot easier.
This what it looks like when you take off your wheels. Notice the axle nut!
Here the axle nut has been removed. It?s a 32mm socket that you will need.
This is the castle nut on the lower ball joint. Notice the ghetto cotter pin used by the prior owner. 17mm socket needed here!
This is the suspension fork pass thru nut and bolt. 17mm socket need here too.
This is the top of the suspension fork. 14mm socket needed here. Notice my crap kyb's.
Here is the lower ball joint nut off! Now break out the hammer and start beating on the lower control arm to free the ball joint loose!
Here the fork has no nut!
Remove the fork! Notice the axle hanging down. Now with the fork removed you can take out the axles. This is as far as you have to go if your just gonna replace your CV Axles.
This is the carrier bearing on the left hand side for those with a b series motors anyone with a single wont have this you will just have a long shaft that goes from the tranny to the hub. Remove the shaft and then remove the three 14mm head bolts that hold the carrier bearing to the motor from here you can take out the input shaft. Repeat all the above steps on the other side but you wont have a carrier bearing on the right side.
This is where your shift linkage connect to the tranny. See that clip it has to come out.
Now remove this blasted pin you can use a 1/4in non tapered drift punch but I used my air hammer and got it out quick!
Here the shift linkage is out and the stabalizer bar for the linkage is out too. The stabalizer bars needs a 12mm socket to remove.
Ok if your this far now your ready to start the good stuff get the starter off the tranny and the get the rear tranny mount bolts off the tranny, leave the mount in place. Remove 8 or so bolts from the tranny that look like this, using a 1 7mm socket.
Then crack the tranny loose from the motor!
This is where the clutch throw out bearing goes and all the dust from the clutch disc accumulates. Check the clutch fork for damage and replace if damaged. Check for damage to the throw out bearing. I found mine to be dried up and the ball bearing inside to be seized! Guess this was my problem after all!!
Here is the Clutch bolted up to the flywheel!! Check for damaged and replace!
Here are PICS of the tranny out of the car I am going to clean it up and paint it so I figured I would post PICS of it before and after.
Ok so this is all for today I had to get out of the shop cause I was there since 7am and it was close to 7pm already! Tommorow I will remove the clutch from the flywheel and remove the flywheel. I will send it out to get resurfaced and when I get it back show all the steps to reinstalling the clutch and the tranny back into my EJ1.
Ok so for today?s part I made a little progress. This is one of the 6 bolts that holds the clutch to the flywheel. For this you will need a 10mm 12 point socket! YOU MUST USE A 12 POINT SOCKET OR YOU WILL DAMAGE THESE BOLTS!
After the clutch plate and the disc are removed check them for abnormal wear. Here you can see why I was having problems with my clutch and what was causing my noise. This is my clutch disc and it has seen better days. This is abnormal wear the fact that the spring was coming out of the disc could have easily locked up my motor and caused more expensive damage! Also note the uneven wear of the disc meaning that it was not flush with the flywheel.
This is my clutch pressure plate. This is also showing signs of abnormal wear. Notice how the inside of the fingers are shiny...Um this is NOT supposed to be like this. It was caused by the spring on the disc breaking out of the disc and rubbing on the inside of the fingers. Also notice the heat signs on the plate. That is also no good this could cause clutch slippage and possible cause of some tranny grinds.
Here we have the Flywheel on the still mounted to the crankshaft. It is held on by 8 17mm 12 point bolts. Again I warn you if you are not using a 12 point socket you will damage these bolts. Inspect the Flywheel teeth for damage if any are broken or worn excessively replace the Flywheel. Notice the pilot bushing, this should be replaced with the clutch. This is also a great time to have your flywheel resurface. I advise against using a "cookie" wheel to scuff up the flywheel. HAVE YOUR FLYWHEEL RESURFACED IT WILL SAVE YOU TROUBLE AND HEADACHES DOWN THE ROAD! Plus its cheap to get it done and takes only like 10 to 15 min to do.
Here is the crankshaft where the flywheel bolts up to it. Here you can also see the Engines rear main seal. Inspect for damage or abnormal wear and replace if needed. This seal is only accessible by removing the tranny and clutch with the flywheel from the engine. So if you have any doubts do it now cause you will have to do it all over again if it goes bad later.
Ok I had some time to kill while the Flywheel is out getting resurfaced so I prepped the tranny for paint. Here you can see it primed with etching primer.
This is all for today I had a long heavy day at work and I did not have time to get the Flywheel back. Tommorow I will paint the Tranny install the Flywheel and install the clutch. CCFL!!!
Ok Here is the Tranny painted gunmetal metallic. She looks pretty!!!
This is my old flywheel after it was resurfaced see how much of a difference it makes to get it done, Now its smooth and straight. I wont have to worry about any problems from here!
Here is what I got an Exedy Racing stage 1 clutch. Figured I would upgrade from stock since I had to do this anyway! Here you can also see the new Pressure plate, disc, throw out bearing, pilot bearing and alignment tool, all this came as a kit from summit racing.
This is the flywheel going back on to the crankshaft, the bolt are tightened in a sequence so I installed them in that sequence so that I would make it easier for you all to see the step. You can also see the new pilot bearing installed, I just tapped it in with a socket that was the same size around the bearing. Here again you need a 17mm 12 point socket and a torque wrench. Please refer to the proper manual for your engine for the torque specs.
After you torque down the flywheel, you can install the clutch disc and pressure plate using the alignment tool. Make sure the disc is facing the right direction most have a stamp that reads flywheel side, exedy did not so I installed it the same way the old one came out, with the taller side of the center of the disc outward. Then install the pressure plate over the disc, making sure to align the dowel pins with the holes in the plate. Again the bolts go mounted and torque to the proper specs in the manual.
This is the throw out bearing all greased up inside. Here is the tranny input shaft, make sure you grease this up and the splines also, refer to the manual for the specific type of grease. Then install the bearing on the clutch fork, and slide it back and forth to make sure its not binding up anywhere.
Here she is in all her glory! I painted the mount black and the brackets that go on the tranny black just so that it looks a lot cleaner. I am happy with the way it came out. Here she is ready to go back in!
Make sure you take your time and line it up as its going up. I know many don?t have use of a lift or a tranny jack but this tranny is really not that heavy its only about 50 to 70 pounds if that. I have done this with out the use of a lift and a tranny jack and I just used a floor jack to bring it up to the motor. Once you line up the dowels get one of the bolts to start on each side of the tranny then slowly start to bring it in to its place. Then install the other bolts and tightened specs.
Next install the shift stabalizer and shift linkage. Make sure you line up the hole in the linkage to the hole in the shift rod on the tranny, I greased it up just to make sure I did not get any noised from anywhere that would bug me late. Insert the now declared "bitch" pin and tap it in with a hammer. Install your retaining clip and vamoose your done with the linkage :dance:
Ok almost done. Now install you axles. See that bolt head next to the where the axle goes in to the tranny? That is where you fill up tranny with fluid, it is a 17mm head and I used what Honda recommends for fluid. 10w 30 motor oil.
Make sure you properly seat the axle all the way into the tranny so it does not pop out on you or you end up grinding it to crap. Install the axle nuts back on and torque to proper specs. Make sure you notch the axle nuts where the axles have a notch so they don?t come undone!
Install your clutch slave cylinder and the rest of the accessories you took out and your set to go. Here is the Tranny in the car. Tomorrow I will take better PICS of it and post up the PICS of the tools needed.
Ok so today I started to do the clutch on my EJ1 and I took some PICS. Hope this helps someone who is willing to do the same to there Civic or any other car with a manual transmission as the steps are all pretty much the same. Now I have to do this in steps because of time restrains on me at work. So this is the First part and I will be updating this as I progress on the install. First drain your tranny of its life blood and let it drain really good, you don?t want to get tranny fluid all over your work area or your self.
This is my Ej1 and here it sits with a bad Clutch
These are the tools I will be using. Note that air equipment is not needed but it sure makes the job a lot easier.
This what it looks like when you take off your wheels. Notice the axle nut!
Here the axle nut has been removed. It?s a 32mm socket that you will need.
This is the castle nut on the lower ball joint. Notice the ghetto cotter pin used by the prior owner. 17mm socket needed here!
This is the suspension fork pass thru nut and bolt. 17mm socket need here too.
This is the top of the suspension fork. 14mm socket needed here. Notice my crap kyb's.
Here is the lower ball joint nut off! Now break out the hammer and start beating on the lower control arm to free the ball joint loose!
Here the fork has no nut!
Remove the fork! Notice the axle hanging down. Now with the fork removed you can take out the axles. This is as far as you have to go if your just gonna replace your CV Axles.
This is the carrier bearing on the left hand side for those with a b series motors anyone with a single wont have this you will just have a long shaft that goes from the tranny to the hub. Remove the shaft and then remove the three 14mm head bolts that hold the carrier bearing to the motor from here you can take out the input shaft. Repeat all the above steps on the other side but you wont have a carrier bearing on the right side.
This is where your shift linkage connect to the tranny. See that clip it has to come out.
Now remove this blasted pin you can use a 1/4in non tapered drift punch but I used my air hammer and got it out quick!
Here the shift linkage is out and the stabalizer bar for the linkage is out too. The stabalizer bars needs a 12mm socket to remove.
Ok if your this far now your ready to start the good stuff get the starter off the tranny and the get the rear tranny mount bolts off the tranny, leave the mount in place. Remove 8 or so bolts from the tranny that look like this, using a 1 7mm socket.
Then crack the tranny loose from the motor!
This is where the clutch throw out bearing goes and all the dust from the clutch disc accumulates. Check the clutch fork for damage and replace if damaged. Check for damage to the throw out bearing. I found mine to be dried up and the ball bearing inside to be seized! Guess this was my problem after all!!
Here is the Clutch bolted up to the flywheel!! Check for damaged and replace!
Here are PICS of the tranny out of the car I am going to clean it up and paint it so I figured I would post PICS of it before and after.
Ok so this is all for today I had to get out of the shop cause I was there since 7am and it was close to 7pm already! Tommorow I will remove the clutch from the flywheel and remove the flywheel. I will send it out to get resurfaced and when I get it back show all the steps to reinstalling the clutch and the tranny back into my EJ1.
Ok so for today?s part I made a little progress. This is one of the 6 bolts that holds the clutch to the flywheel. For this you will need a 10mm 12 point socket! YOU MUST USE A 12 POINT SOCKET OR YOU WILL DAMAGE THESE BOLTS!
After the clutch plate and the disc are removed check them for abnormal wear. Here you can see why I was having problems with my clutch and what was causing my noise. This is my clutch disc and it has seen better days. This is abnormal wear the fact that the spring was coming out of the disc could have easily locked up my motor and caused more expensive damage! Also note the uneven wear of the disc meaning that it was not flush with the flywheel.
This is my clutch pressure plate. This is also showing signs of abnormal wear. Notice how the inside of the fingers are shiny...Um this is NOT supposed to be like this. It was caused by the spring on the disc breaking out of the disc and rubbing on the inside of the fingers. Also notice the heat signs on the plate. That is also no good this could cause clutch slippage and possible cause of some tranny grinds.
Here we have the Flywheel on the still mounted to the crankshaft. It is held on by 8 17mm 12 point bolts. Again I warn you if you are not using a 12 point socket you will damage these bolts. Inspect the Flywheel teeth for damage if any are broken or worn excessively replace the Flywheel. Notice the pilot bushing, this should be replaced with the clutch. This is also a great time to have your flywheel resurface. I advise against using a "cookie" wheel to scuff up the flywheel. HAVE YOUR FLYWHEEL RESURFACED IT WILL SAVE YOU TROUBLE AND HEADACHES DOWN THE ROAD! Plus its cheap to get it done and takes only like 10 to 15 min to do.
Here is the crankshaft where the flywheel bolts up to it. Here you can also see the Engines rear main seal. Inspect for damage or abnormal wear and replace if needed. This seal is only accessible by removing the tranny and clutch with the flywheel from the engine. So if you have any doubts do it now cause you will have to do it all over again if it goes bad later.
Ok I had some time to kill while the Flywheel is out getting resurfaced so I prepped the tranny for paint. Here you can see it primed with etching primer.
This is all for today I had a long heavy day at work and I did not have time to get the Flywheel back. Tommorow I will paint the Tranny install the Flywheel and install the clutch. CCFL!!!
Ok Here is the Tranny painted gunmetal metallic. She looks pretty!!!
This is my old flywheel after it was resurfaced see how much of a difference it makes to get it done, Now its smooth and straight. I wont have to worry about any problems from here!
Here is what I got an Exedy Racing stage 1 clutch. Figured I would upgrade from stock since I had to do this anyway! Here you can also see the new Pressure plate, disc, throw out bearing, pilot bearing and alignment tool, all this came as a kit from summit racing.
This is the flywheel going back on to the crankshaft, the bolt are tightened in a sequence so I installed them in that sequence so that I would make it easier for you all to see the step. You can also see the new pilot bearing installed, I just tapped it in with a socket that was the same size around the bearing. Here again you need a 17mm 12 point socket and a torque wrench. Please refer to the proper manual for your engine for the torque specs.
After you torque down the flywheel, you can install the clutch disc and pressure plate using the alignment tool. Make sure the disc is facing the right direction most have a stamp that reads flywheel side, exedy did not so I installed it the same way the old one came out, with the taller side of the center of the disc outward. Then install the pressure plate over the disc, making sure to align the dowel pins with the holes in the plate. Again the bolts go mounted and torque to the proper specs in the manual.
This is the throw out bearing all greased up inside. Here is the tranny input shaft, make sure you grease this up and the splines also, refer to the manual for the specific type of grease. Then install the bearing on the clutch fork, and slide it back and forth to make sure its not binding up anywhere.
Here she is in all her glory! I painted the mount black and the brackets that go on the tranny black just so that it looks a lot cleaner. I am happy with the way it came out. Here she is ready to go back in!
Make sure you take your time and line it up as its going up. I know many don?t have use of a lift or a tranny jack but this tranny is really not that heavy its only about 50 to 70 pounds if that. I have done this with out the use of a lift and a tranny jack and I just used a floor jack to bring it up to the motor. Once you line up the dowels get one of the bolts to start on each side of the tranny then slowly start to bring it in to its place. Then install the other bolts and tightened specs.
Next install the shift stabalizer and shift linkage. Make sure you line up the hole in the linkage to the hole in the shift rod on the tranny, I greased it up just to make sure I did not get any noised from anywhere that would bug me late. Insert the now declared "bitch" pin and tap it in with a hammer. Install your retaining clip and vamoose your done with the linkage :dance:
Ok almost done. Now install you axles. See that bolt head next to the where the axle goes in to the tranny? That is where you fill up tranny with fluid, it is a 17mm head and I used what Honda recommends for fluid. 10w 30 motor oil.
Make sure you properly seat the axle all the way into the tranny so it does not pop out on you or you end up grinding it to crap. Install the axle nuts back on and torque to proper specs. Make sure you notch the axle nuts where the axles have a notch so they don?t come undone!
Install your clutch slave cylinder and the rest of the accessories you took out and your set to go. Here is the Tranny in the car. Tomorrow I will take better PICS of it and post up the PICS of the tools needed.